The Global Grandma: Kiyomizu-dera Temple, or One Shade of Red.

Kiyomizu-dera Temple,

One Shade of Red.

Today we’re just strolling around Kyoto.

Or rather, finishing our stroll, as I’ve already told you about the two ancient streets we walked on one of the hottest days of our trip. We are Meire, Rosely, and your humble servant, traveling around Japan on the large cruise ship, the Celebrity Millennium.

And did you remember the names of those streets? They were Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka. (I repeated their names so many times in the story that I memorized them! Do you need to? Who knows. Life is full of unpredictable things...) I spent a long time telling you about them yesterday; there were many photos, yet I never mentioned that those two streets are very short—about 150 meters each, plus a transition, making the total length about 400 meters. That’s all! And yet, there is so much talk about them, including online... and I got involved too!

However, if you walk there, and not quickly (and a quick pace is impossible anyway: there are many tourists, you move in a crowd, weaving, waiting for a small break to take a souvenir photo) — you will be imbued with their special charm. You’ll feel a particular atmosphere of beauty and tranquility, and you’ll sense: these are the living traditions of millennia, this is the living culture of Japan.

You might manage to resist buying souvenirs, but it’s impossible to resist stopping, looking closely, and taking a picture.

And yes, you haven't forgotten, the streets have a steep incline, and you have to walk carefully, remembering the legend about death in two or three days. And, indeed, in forty-degree heat one doesn't rush up the steps, or the legend might actually come true.

I am preparing you, because, if you recall, these two streets lead to the temple.

Today is the temple. Or rather, the Kiyomizu-dera Temple Complex.

But to enter the temple, one must pass through the Main Entrance Gate (capitalized for a reason!).

This is Niō-mon, the "Gate of the Two Niō Guardians."

Did you notice the dragon's head on the flagpole? I realize it’s hard to see if you’re looking on a phone, but trust me, it’s there. Later, you'll understand why it’s here.

The original gate burned down during the Ōnin War in the late 1400s.

Are we looking at another reconstruction?! — "Yep!" — as one friend of mine answers every question.

The current, impressive gate was reconstructed... around the year 1500.

It underwent a major restoration again in the early 2000s, when its color was restored to its original brilliant state.

Now, let's remember a word: vermilion.

That, by the way, is the color! The color of most temples in Japan.

Why? Well, you look at an object and need to describe its color. You'll say "red," but the color of this gate isn't classically "red"... Okay, "scarlet" is closer. But let's enrich our world with all the shades of red, not just "all the shades of grey": scarlet, burgundy, crimson, vermilion, carmine, cherry... And also vermilion (the very word!) — that bright scarlet color with an orange sheen, which glows gold in the rays of the setting sun, standing out so vividly against the greenery and the blue sky! And if you add clouds to the picture, the result is the dazzling vermilion of the Kiyomizu-dera Temple complex!

It’s also nice to "show off" (excuse the slang): you're telling someone about Japan, and you casually remark that the thick layer of vermilion paint covering the old temple symbolizes good fortune and, according to belief, brings protection from evil spirits.

Though, no, that won't do; it's too elaborate, too pretentious. But knowing the color is still worthwhile. For yourself.

We’ll walk around the temple, just as we did, and I’ll simply tell you a bit about the temple itself, about the history connected with it... the things that I found interesting.

But first, I have to show you the Blue Dragon.

I feel like it didn't impress you.

(It was hard to photograph; if only I hadn't taken the shot with such bright sun, and if the temple’s vermilion color hadn't been right behind it... Am I excused?)

This Blue Dragon (Seiryū) of Kiyomizu-dera Temple is considered its chief celestial protector.

Look from another angle...

It’s still not very clear...

A small note:

Kyoto is traditionally protected by Four Guardian Deities, positioned according to the cardinal directions.

The East is protected by the Blue Dragon.

The West is protected by the White Tiger.

The South is protected by the Red Bird (Phoenix).

The North is protected by the Black Tortoise.

This entire system is based on ancient East Asian cosmology, specifically the Theory of Five Elements, where each color, animal, and direction is inextricably linked to the others.

Kiyomizu-dera is located on the eastern hills of Kyoto, meaning its protector must be the Dragon, the blue or green guardian of the east. In Japan, it is also associated with Water and Wood (the "elements"), Spring, Jupiter, vital force, and protection...

f you’re interested, Google the rest yourself!

We are just strolling...

The temple was founded in 778 AD, making it one of the oldest in Kyoto.

However, most of the current buildings (oh, you guessed the continuation!) were reconstructed.

Yes, they were, by order of Shogun Tokugawa Iemitsu, in 1633.

Before the 1633 reconstruction, this monastery was at war with another monastery, from which invasions by armed monks became especially frequent from the 11th century onward.

As a result, Kiyomizu-dera’s buildings were repeatedly reduced to ashes but were always rebuilt. (It sounds strange to my ear: armed monks...)

Later, the samurai civil wars of the 14th–16th centuries also didn't contribute to cultural development and the preservation of historical heritage, to use official language.

But the Temple was rebuilt, and it stands to this day!

The name Kiyomizu-dera literally means "Temple of Pure Water."

This name comes from the Otowa Waterfall on the temple grounds, whose pure water is believed to have the power to grant wishes to visitors who drink from its streams.

We didn't go down to the spring. The crowds were beginning to thin out, and the grounds were closing soon. It’s impossible to see everything; you have to choose, and it was necessary to conserve energy, as we had already walked so long in the hundred-degree heat (that’s not an exaggeration, it’s Fahrenheit).

It is believed that each stream grants something different: longevity, success in studies, and success in love. What would you choose? Love? Longevity? All three?! — Then, with all due respect, you are not Japanese. Drinking water from all three streams is considered greed in Japan.

It is believed that the Blue Dragon flies down every night to drink water from the Otowa Waterfall.

(I wonder which stream it drinks from?)

Beautiful, isn’t it? Especially because of the combination of colors. And did you remember the name of that shade of red? I won't tell you, don't ask! Did you smile at the joke, or do you think it (or me) is silly?

The most famous part of the temple is the main veranda, built without a single nail. It rests on massive wooden pillars, about thirteen meters high, and juts out over the side of the mountain (which is only visible if you descend the slope).

From the veranda, there is a breathtaking panoramic view of the city of Kyoto, especially beautiful in spring during the cherry blossom season, and in autumn when the slopes turn red with maple leaves, as they write online.

I didn't take a picture of the city view! I was so disappointed; it's in my memory, but not in my photo collection. It’s wonderful that we were traveling as three! Meire shared hers. (You can always rely on Meire; we worked in the same classroom for sixteen years; she had the photo!)

I'm sharing it with you: these are the views of Kyoto from the temple’s balcony.

But at the time, this green slope seemed more worthy of attention to me.

Even though it’s neither spring with cherry blossoms nor autumn with red maples, agree that we were still lucky!

There is a Japanese saying, "to jump off Kiyomizu" — meaning to commit to something incredibly brave or risky.

The most astounding thing is that people actually jumped off this thirteen-meter veranda! Between 1600 and 1868, 234 jumps were recorded. And, surprisingly: two hundred people survived!

(Well, in reality, thanks to the thick bushes below, that's why they survived. It was a "leap of faith," promising the fulfillment of one's most cherished wish. It's unknown whether the survivors' most cherished wishes came true—no one wrote about that. Joking about the deceased is a sin, and now you can't verify it anyway: jumping from the balcony has been forbidden since 1872.)

The temple is known not only for its spring and its beauty but also for its long history of pilgrimage: it is the sixteenth stop on the famous Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage route.

Saigoku means "Western Country."

Who is Kannon? — A Bodhisattva. Who is a Bodhisattva? — Read the story to the end, I'll explain in the notes!

Pilgrimage to Kannon... (alright, I’ll have to explain here: a celestial patroness; still, you should read the note, it will be clearer.)

The Pilgrimage to Kannon is the oldest Buddhist pilgrimage route in Japan. People have walked this route for over 1,300 years. The total length of the route exceeds 1,000 kilometers.

The route unites thirty-three temples, located mainly in Western Japan.

Why thirty-three temples? — It is believed that Kannon can take thirty-three different forms (incarnations) to help people in difficult times. Visiting all thirty-three temples is considered an expression of the desire to heal one's own suffering and can help erase sins committed in this life—a spiritual and physical healing that serves as a "passport" for rebirth in paradise.

It’s clear, then, that all the temples are dedicated to Kannon, the Bodhisattva of Compassion and Mercy.

Modern pilgrims who follow this route (often in parts, not all at once) observe the tradition of collecting Goshuin — special accordion-folded booklets on which the priests of each temple write the name of the sanctuary, the name of the deity, and the date of the visit by hand in black ink, all sealed with the temple’s red stamp.

Allow me to pause for the photographs.

I like them myself. Plus, we were lucky with the weather! (Well, if we don't count the heat, of course!) But we didn't have a single rainy day during the entire cruise. Sunny, picturesque clouds in the sky — pure beauty.

I am simply proud of this photograph with the lonely pine against the cloudy sky. I think it’s the best photo of the day.

Although, no, this next shot might compete with the previous one. Japan is so symbolically reflected in this shot, with its beauty, minimalism, faith, and pilgrimage...

Which one did you like?

We are leaving... Time to go...

Did you remember the color?

Okay, okay, you don't have to.

Vermilion.

And do you remember the Blue Dragon? According to the temple legend, it is one of the manifestations of Kannon herself, who also appears as Thousand-Armed to help people, with the Head of a Horse for their protection, and with Eleven Heads looking in different directions to see suffering and save...

We’ve almost left, but I absolutely must tell you one more thing.

I'll be quick!

The fact is that this is not only a Buddhist temple but also a Shinto shrine.

Note: There are two main faiths in Japan: Buddhism and Shintoism.

If you find the suffix "-dera" in the name, it's a Buddhist temple; if the suffix is "-jinja", it's a Shinto shrine.

Here, the Buddhist temple Kiyomizu-dera and the Shinto shrine Jishu-jinja stand side by side.

This coexistence is very typical of Japan. Throughout the centuries, Buddhism and Shintoism have coexisted peacefully, and often Shinto shrines were built to protect Buddhist temples or their deities.

I already told you about Kannon, the celestial patroness of Compassion and Mercy; this is the Kiyomizu-dera temple.

The main deity of the Jishu-jinja shrine is dedicated to Ōkuninushi-no Mikoto, who is revered as the Deity of Love, Matchmaking, and Successful Marriages.

Young people seeking their soulmates come here on pilgrimage.

Now, a deeper dive into the faith.

Kiyomizu-dera Temple belongs to a school of Japanese Buddhism that came from China. The Hossō-shū school is one of the oldest and most intellectual schools. Its teaching asserts that all phenomena we perceive as the external world are actually just projections and creations of our consciousness.

"Everything is only consciousness." To achieve liberation, one must understand that suffering comes not from the external world but from an incorrect perception of it.

The philosophy of Shintoism, reflected in Jishu-jinja, focuses on more earthly and concrete aspects: "Life must be lived now, in joy and harmony with the divine." Nature and the world are filled with kami — divine spirits. A person must live in purity and harmony with them to receive blessings and avoid misfortune. Petitioning the deities occurs through simple rituals (prayer, offering, clapping hands...). And you will find love, you will create a family, and you will have happiness...

Oh, how I've simplified and abbreviated everything, but we were just strolling, and it’s long past time to leave...

And we are leaving...

And we don't want to...

And we walk back down the same streets.

But everything is already closed.

Or closing.

One could still rush in for one last purchase: a souvenir, sweets, or flowers...

But now it's evening, sunset.

We visited a fairy tale — now we return to everyday life.

For many in Japan, everyday life looks like this.

But for us, the fairy tale wasn't over; we were returning to the cruise!

A taxi... Oh, I must write a story sometime about how we got back! That, too, was a separate adventure, a separate learning experience, a separate lesson.

From Kyoto to Osaka, to the ship: walking, taxi, express train, subway, walking... And NO ONE ANYWHERE spoke English. Everyone helps, everywhere and always, but few understand, yet that story is not for now.

Next up: The Imperial Palace.

P.S.

This is us: Rosalie, I, and Mary.

As travelers in a foreign country, we want to know and understand too much — which is impossible. So, after the trip, I figure things out for myself and tell you about them. As I promised.

A Bodhisattva is a person or spiritual being who has reached a high level of enlightenment (almost like a Buddha) but has refused to enter Nirvana. They do this out of deep compassion for all living beings. Their goal is to remain in the world to help others achieve the same enlightenment and save them from suffering. They are examples of mercy and self-sacrifice. They are like "enlightened helpers."

Bodhisattva Kannon (full name Kannon Bosatsu) is the Japanese name for one of the most revered and beloved Bodhisattvas in all of East Asian Buddhism. Originally, this was the Indian Bodhisattva Avalokiteśvara. The name Kannon means "one who heeds (listens to) the sounds (cries) of the world." Kannon is the embodiment of unconditional compassion and mercy. Legend states that Kannon can take 33 different forms to best help anyone who calls upon her. Kannon can be depicted as both male and female, but in East Asia (including Japan), she is most often represented as a female deity of mercy. She often holds a lotus or a vessel with the nectar of immortality. Kannon is incredibly popular in Kyoto. Kiyomizu-dera Temple is one of the most famous temples dedicated to Kannon.

A simple analogy:

If the Buddha is the teacher who has already "graduated" and achieved the ideal state, then the Bodhisattva is the graduate who decided to become a mentor and stay in the school to help every struggling student successfully pass the exam and get their diploma. Kannon is the most famous and merciful of these mentors, who responds especially sensitively to every request.

I told you I’m a teacher; even my comparisons are all about school and school...

The Global Grandma

Wednesday, November 19, 2025

Kiyomizu-dera Temple, or One Shade of Red.

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