The Global Grandma: Kunōzan Tōshō-gū Shrine. Japan, Celebrity Millennium cruise.

Kunōzan Tōshō-gū Shrine,

A Brief Course on Japanese History.

From the series "Japan, or An American Retiree's Extreme Vacation."

Looking back at our trip to Japan and going through the photos... I think today's story is the most colorful, the most vivid, in terms of the pictures. But this story is also something of a "likbez." (Oh, I don't think everyone reading this will understand the word and the associations that come with it... It's sad: events, things, and words are forgotten—and with them, understanding disappears. "Likbez" means "liquidation of illiteracy," and I hope the older generation will forgive me for explaining.)

Usually I write, "If you're not interested, just look at the pictures." Today's text is without jokes or poems; it's more informative than entertaining, but I still ask you to read it. You can't travel to a country without the slightest idea about it, without knowing the basic facts related to the lives of its people. It's a matter of basic respect, and in Japan, the Japanese people's respect for their own country, nature, and people—and for us, their guests and tourists—was felt everywhere. So this story is about the basic facts of Japanese history, offered with respect for Japan.

So, let's start where we left off yesterday: Nihondaira Yume Terrace, that "Japanese Dream Terrace" that offered those fabulous views and, for the lucky ones, a glimpse of Mount Fuji.

The temple we wanted to get to is at the foot of the hill. To reach it, we had to take the ropeway, which is an excursion and a special pleasure in itself, if you think about it.

A staircase surrounded by a bamboo grove leads to the ropeway cabins.

(What a blessing that my traveling companions were so understanding of my desire to capture what I saw! One minute I'm photographing a staircase, the next the bamboo makes me stop... Beauty is an unpredictable thing.)

The funicular cabins were operated by very cheerful and smiling girls.

The views of the ocean during the descent and then the ascent were exceptional. Just look (and I'll get to enjoy them all over again).

Alright, let's go...

We descended to the Kunōzan Tōshōgū Shinto Shrine.

My apologies for interrupting the story, but let me show you a photo that's not at all colorful!

As we climbed the steps from the funicular to the entrance of the shrine, pay attention to the handrails on the staircase. There are several of them at different levels for children and the elderly, for tall people and short ones... and they're all of different diameters! A child's hand can get a more secure grip on a thinner rail, while my arthritic hand is more easily helped by holding onto a thicker one.

Respect for people is shown in these exact kinds of details. In Japan, you see things like this everywhere.

Oh, and another thing! In Los Angeles, where I live, tickets to exhibitions and museums average $15 to $30 (and some are more expensive. You might tell me I myself wrote about senior discounts, free admission days, and free museums... yes, yes, all of that exists). But in Japan, the average price for a museum visit is $5. And that, too, is respect—respect for one's own history and culture, making museums accessible to everyone.

I have one more observation. Remember the shrine's plan on the stone wall at the entrance? I'll zoom in:

It's immediately clear where to go and where the various temples are located on the complex grounds... but you see the hieroglyphs (and only hieroglyphs!). This information isn't accessible if you don't speak Japanese. (This is another reason I called the series of stories about Japan "An American Retiree's Extreme Vacation.")

In Japan, they don't speak English. Besides English, we could also communicate in Spanish, Russian, and Portuguese, but they don't know those languages in Japan either. In Japan, they speak Japanese. Always and everywhere. Only Japanese. Very few people, when spoken to, understand English, even among the youth. (Have I repeated myself enough so you don't think I'm joking? You probably think, surely the young people must speak... well, at least have a basic grasp of English... at least understand... No! The vast majority of young people don't know English either!)

This doesn't mean that people didn't help us; on the contrary! Everyone, always and everywhere, tried to help us: they would get out their phones with automatic translation apps, and in the subway—where there are English dubs for station names—they would show us how to get there and where to go. Station attendants would show us pictures with explanations... But they wouldn't speak English.

I have mixed feelings about this. Right now, I'll express my opinion on one side of the issue. This "lack of knowledge" shows respect for their own language. You are guests in our country, and we respect you, but this is our country, and we speak Japanese here. And in this, there is the unity of a nation, united by language, culture, and territory. (Yes, yes, I hear you, I hear you that this is only one side of the issue... But allow me to stop my reflections here, otherwise too many questions would have to be discussed.)

Okay, so we've arrived, and now we're heading up to the shrine while also getting a history lesson—that "likbez" I mentioned. (I hope this word doesn't annoy you, and that the simplicity of the information doesn't either. I know you can easily find it online, but will you? Exactly!)

The history of this shrine spans over 400 years. It honors Tokugawa Ieyasu, the ruler who founded the Tokugawa shogunate in 1603, bringing 265 years of peace to Japan.

I'll have to start the story from an earlier period, as there are too many questions: what is a shogunate, who ruled Japan, why was the ruler named Tokugawa Ieyasu and the shrine is named Kunōzan Tōshōgū... and I haven't even listed all the questions.

So let's walk, look, and talk...

Historically, Japan has had various forms of government, including imperial rule, shogunate, and military dictatorship, while currently it is a parliamentary constitutional monarchy.

Starting in the 6th century, Japan was ruled by the imperial dynasty. The emperor was considered a divine descendant of the sun goddess Amaterasu and held absolute power. However, his actual political power was often limited by influential aristocratic clans.

In 1185, power shifted to the shoguns, military rulers who effectively governed the country, while the emperor remained only a symbolic head of state.

The age of the shogunates lasted for almost 700 years and included three main periods:

The Kamakura shogunate (1185–1333)
The Ashikaga shogunate (1336–1573)
The Tokugawa shogunate (1603–1868)

Yes, Tokugawa Ieyasu, who founded the Tokugawa shogunate in 1603, is the very ruler who is revered here.

In 1868, Japan underwent the Meiji Restoration, which ended the shogunate and restored the emperor's political power. The goal of the restoration was to modernize Japan and avoid colonization by Western powers. In 1889, Emperor Mutsuhito (Meiji) adopted a constitution, establishing a constitutional monarchy.

Following World War II, Japan adopted a new constitution in 1947, which declared the people as sovereign and the emperor as "the symbol of the State and of the unity of the people." Modern Japan is a parliamentary constitutional monarchy with an emperor (head of state with ceremonial duties), a parliament (the National Diet, which is the highest organ of state power and the sole law-making body, consisting of the House of Representatives and the House of Councillors), and a prime minister (head of government, elected by the parliament, who holds real executive power).

Today, the Imperial Family of Japan consists of the emperor himself, his wife, and their daughter (as well as other close relatives): Emperor Naruhito (born 1960), Empress Masako (born 1963, who worked as a diplomat before her marriage), and Princess Aiko (born 2001), the imperial couple's only daughter. Succession follows the male line.

Naruhito is the 126th Emperor of Japan. He ascended the Chrysanthemum Throne on May 1, 2019, following the abdication of his father, Emperor Akihito. His reign's motto is Reiwa, which means "beautiful harmony."

(It sounds beautiful, doesn't it? "Beautiful harmony" and the "Chrysanthemum Throne"!)

Alright, that clears things up a bit.

Now, we need to go back again, to the 15th century.

Who was Tokugawa Ieyasu (this isn't the only name for this person), and what did he do to have this shrine dedicated to him?

Tokugawa Ieyasu was a shogun who lived a long life, 75 years in all, under three emperors.

Oh, now I need to explain who the shoguns were.

Initially, the title of shogun—or "commander-in-chief"—was granted to military leaders who led armies into battle. They were skilled strategists and tacticians. Their legitimacy was based on military strength, which allowed them to dominate other clans and the nobility.

But shoguns didn't just fight; they also governed the country. They created their own governments—shogunates. They enacted laws, set taxes, managed the judicial system, and appointed officials.

Shoguns were also the supreme feudal lords, and their power was based on a feudal system. They distributed lands and titles among their vassals, the daimyō (feudal lords), who, in turn, ruled their own domains. The daimyō were obligated to serve the shogun and provide him with troops when necessary. The shogun controlled this hierarchy, ensuring his power and the stability of the country.

There were many shoguns, and not all of them have shrines dedicated to them. What was this ruler, Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu, like?

Based on the official shrine website, Tokugawa Ieyasu is described as a great historical figure who dedicated his life to establishing peace and unifying a fragmented Japan. He achieved this by ending a long civil war and creating a single, stable state. His governance was founded on three main principles:

Respect for every person's life.
The development and strengthening of education across the country.
Maintaining peaceful relations with foreign powers through diplomacy and trade.

I'd love to believe that, but I can't, even if Tokugawa Ieyasu was deified after his death and came to be revered as a "kami."

(The Japanese do not have "saints" like in Christianity. The concept of kami in Shintoism is different. Kami are not necessarily morally perfect beings like saints. Many outstanding people, especially those who made great contributions to history or died under tragic circumstances, were deified and revered in shrines.)

I've found alternative information about Tokugawa Ieyasu and selected a few facts (at random). I'm keeping the number of names and dates in the story to a minimum. If you need full information, I've provided links to the websites after the story.

Tokugawa Ieyasu was born in 1543 into a small samurai clan that controlled a portion of land in the province.

This clan's territory was squeezed between the domains of aggressive neighbors who were constantly at war with each other. This led to constant disputes within the clan over which ally to choose. Some vassals wanted to side with the western neighbor, while others advocated for joining the eastern one. At one point, young Ieyasu's grandfather fell victim to these quarrels and was assassinated by his own vassals for attempting to align with the western family. His successor, Ieyasu's father, was more cautious and followed the will of the majority, which favored the eastern neighbors. Ieyasu's mother came from a family that traditionally supported the western neighbors, so when the majority of vassals voted to support the eastern rulers, she was exiled from the residence.

As a child, Ieyasu was a political hostage held by neighboring rulers who used the weak in their power games.

After one of the battles, Ieyasu rebelled against his suzerain and allied with his enemy. After the death of this ally, Ieyasu fought for his inheritance—and lost, acknowledging himself as someone else's vassal. After the death of the next suzerain, he took advantage of internal family conflicts and, as a result, expanded his own domain, creating a powerful military and economic base to realize his plan of unifying Japan.

A massive story about battles with "enemy" neighbors, castle sieges, assassinations in temples, and ninja units coming to the rescue should follow. But just as I don't want to choose and retell this information (it's quite monotonous: he was always fighting someone, annexing lands, and acquiring vassals), you won't want to read it either. Still, even from what's been said, it's clear that "respect for every person's life" and other high qualities are a bit of an exaggeration when describing the shogun's character.

Tokugawa Ieyasu was a strong ruler who unified Japan and established the shogunate. He issued a number of edicts that solidified the serfdom of the peasantry, disarmed the non-samurai population, and created codes of conduct for the daimyo and nobles, as well as for the emperor and his court, placing them all under the shogunate's control.

Regarding "maintaining peaceful relations with foreign powers through diplomacy and trade," during his rule, only the Dutch were granted the monopoly to have relations and trade with the Japanese. In 1614, Ieyasu issued an edict that prohibited "white" foreigners and Christians from residing in the country. This led to a period of repression, forced conversion to Buddhism, and mass public crucifixions of Christian believers. The Tokugawa shoguns began to implement a policy that resulted in Japan's isolation from the West. (Freedom of religion in Japan was not proclaimed until 1868.)

I'll repeat: he was a strong ruler who unified the country. But it's interesting that he is revered not only for this, but also for dedicating his life to "establishing peace in Japan." All articles about him emphasize that his shogunate ensured peace in Japan for 265 years.

Having spent the last decade of his life in the nearby Sunpu Castle, shortly before his death in 1616, Ieyasu expressed his wish to be buried on Mount Kunōzan.

As instructed, his remains were interred here, on the mountain.

Later, his remains were moved to Nikkō (Nikkō Tōshō-gū in Tochigi Prefecture), also in accordance with his last wishes. Nikkō Tōshō-gū is his mausoleum and one of the most famous and richly decorated Shinto shrines in Japan.

After Tokugawa Ieyasu died, his successor, Shogun Tokugawa Hidetada, built this magnificent shrine that we're currently walking through.

It was built by one of the best masters of the Edo period, Nakai Masakiyo, and it took one year and seven months to complete.

Tokugawa Ieyasu became known as Tōshō-daigon-gen. This divine name means "The Great God Incarnation Who Illuminates the East." He was deified as a protector of the peace he established and as the patron of the Tokugawa shogunate.

The shrine also venerates two other kami: Oda Nobunaga and Toyotomi Hideyoshi. All three are considered the "unifiers of Japan."

So, my "likbez" is complete.

Did you really read the whole story?! I'm surprised.

To be honest, I wasn't counting on it. And by no means am I scolding anyone, God forbid! I'm a retired teacher—I can't stop teaching, it's in my blood. But I haven't worn rose-tinted glasses for a long time: you can't teach anyone, you can only help someone learn, and only if they want to.

And according to my deep-seated teacher's conviction, no one is obligated to want to. Not everyone in life is interested in "the history of Japan," especially not in my retelling.

We're leaving...

***

The photos in the story are great, don't you agree? Please allow me (don't be angry) to show you a few of my favorites from this series for a second time. This isn't praise for myself as the photographer, but admiration for the builders.

Look at how the combination of vibrant red with gold and lacquered black creates a sense of solemnity and festivity.

A truly royal combination!

The carvings, emphasized by the contrast of colors, blend so well with the delicate patterns of the surrounding foliage.

How organically all the structures fit into the surrounding nature, on the one hand, and make a statement, standing out, on the other.

The complex's location on a high mountain creates a perspective so breathtaking that when you see such a descent to the ocean through the temple gates, you simply gasp in delight!

I couldn't stop...

And on everything, the patina of time...

P.S.

We took a taxi from the shrine to return to the cruise ship.

I took a few photos from the car window along the way. No, I'm not including them to spoil the story of a beautiful place, but to be truthful. Shimizu is a simple port city.

Life consists not only of holidays; it is filled with weekdays. In many cities, there are temples, but people live in ordinary homes. However, it is precisely this ordinary life of ours, with its weekdays, that is the reason for visiting museums, temples, and parks... to rise a little above this mundane daily routine that consumes our time.

Oops, I didn't write my incantation in the story! I need to correct that mistake: "We, three travelers, Meire, Rosely, and I, are sailing on the Celebrity Millennium cruise around Japan."

Girls, remember the stairs? We all went down them... one by one!